I decided to make a white pique dress for my daughter since she wears more dresses than I do. It's difficult to find patterns in size 4 but we agreed on Simplicity 1650. We looked beyond the peplum to the basic lines of the pattern. I made a muslin to check the fit and it's a good thing I did. One adjustment that definitely needs to be made before cutting is the width across the front neckline area. I had to take out about 3/4 inch from the front width by moving the pattern over at the fold about 3/8 inch at the top only. Otherwise, I would have been adding darts to the front neckline!
The front princess seams needed to be taken up a bit but I decided to adjust that after cutting out the bodice so that I could pin the adjustments on her body. I compared the skirt to a favorite skirt pattern and it was very close so adjustments were easy for the skirt.
We liked the cap sleeve but not the gathers at the top especially for the weight of the pique. I spent more time on the sleeves than any other part of the process. I don't know a lot about sleeve drafting so I laid the cap sleeve pattern (with the extra fullness folded out) on top of tracing paper on top of the basic short sleeve and drafted a new sleeve with the parts that I liked from each.
I added self-fabric piping to the neckline and to the bottom of the sleeves. I love piping! I used a Bernina #3 buttonhole foot which has grooves in the bottom and I was able to get a lot closer to the cord than with a zipper foot. I also used the #3 foot for the invisible zipper and it worked just as well, if not better, than my invisible zipper foot.
This is the sleeve piping before understitching with the lining opened out from the sleeve. The piping is tapered at the underarm seam to reduce bulk.
I made thread loops at the side seams with a method I learned from a Children's Corner pattern many years ago when I smocked for my daughters. I think I might be a nerdy seamstress because I counted the number of loops so that the thread chains on each side would match!
Here she is all accessorized for an evening out.
Evening out without the belt.
This is the casual daytime version with brown leather belt and strappy wedges, brown wood beads, and a denim jacket.
This is the blank canvas. My daughter loves the dress. I think she will be able to wear this very classic style for many years, dressed up or down, or somewhere in between.
I lined the dress with a poly/cotton batiste and inserted an invisible zipper in the back. Total cost of the dress is $16 for pique, lining, and zipper with coupons and my "over 55" senior discount at Hancock Fabrics!
Link here to my review of this dress on Patternreview.
You did a wonderful job on this dress, and your daughter looks beautiful in it! Good luck in the contest.
ReplyDeleteThank you Vanessa! My daughter and I enjoyed this project very much. I think we'll get a lot of use from this pattern!
DeleteThat is such a nice dress! Love the piping. And your daughter looks so nice in it.
ReplyDeleteThanks! My daughter is fun to sew for!
DeleteWonderful dress for your daughter, but I must say that the fit is absolutely perfect! It looks totally custom and is extremely flattering on your daughter.
ReplyDeleteI was intrigued by your use of the #3 Bernina foot to attach the piping on the dress. I will have to take a look at that, very interesting.....
I always enjoy your blog. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your nice comment! I love finding other purposes for feet but never have the time to experiment. I'm glad I tried it out on this project.
DeleteExquisite. Love your piping, how you managed it at the underarm seam. Smart! Beautiful work.
ReplyDeleteThank you Coco! I love piping on everything from dresses to pajamas!
DeleteVery beautiful - the dress is perfectly form fitting and wonderfully sewn. Such a lucky girl! I LOVE how you did the piping, when I grow up I want your skills!
ReplyDeleteThank you! My daughter has already "ordered" another dress by this pattern now that we have it custom fitted for her.
DeleteOh, using the #3 for piping... your piping is just exquisite, much nicer than mine. Would you be able to publish a little tutorial on just HOW you get yours so nice? No such thing as too much detail I tried making piping but was so unhappy with the outcome I gave up for that outfit. Seemed like the fabric kept twisting, even though I tried a piping foot (Bernina). Obviously, it is operator error, but I'm honestly not sure what I am doing incorrectly. I would really like to master that skill. It adds such a lovely touch.
ReplyDeleteI'd love to see what I can come up with for a tutorial!
DeleteThank you! That would be so very nice of you to take the time to do that. I've admired your sewing skills for some time now. I used a bias strip, but somehow in the stitching it just didn't look very nice. Too much of that homemade look, if you know what I mean LOL!
DeleteThe piping is a great detail. The dress looks great on your daughter. It should be great basic to build outfits.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Annette! We love the basic pattern and the possibilities.
DeleteI love pique, and I love this dress. The piping is a lovely touch.
ReplyDeleteThank you Susan! I love piping too!
DeleteSo beautiful! Superbly sewn. I love the dress.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the nice comment, Ruth!
DeleteReally pretty! Pinning:) I <3 your white dress:)
ReplyDeleteThanks for pinning, Michele!
DeleteOh, I did look at the entries on Pattern Review, and I truly do think you have one of the nicest. I will put in my vote for you when voting opens!
ReplyDeleteDone :)
DeleteYour sewing skills blow me away! Hannah is one lucky (and beautiful!) girl.
ReplyDeleteThanks Allison! Hannah thinks we make a great team. She places an order and I fill it! She really is very patient with the many fittings it takes me to get everything just right.
DeleteWow! Your stitching is perfect! Congratulations on winning the contest, well done.
ReplyDeleteThank you Lynn! The contest was fun and gave the me little push I needed to be more productive.
DeleteLovely craftsmanship, Jan. I found your blog through PR. Thank you for posting all the detailing. Your dress is beautiful and so is your daughter.
ReplyDeleteCongratulations on winning the contest.