Little White Dress Contest

Back in January I entered a Little White Dress Contest on Patternreview. I've always wanted to enter one of their contests but always got sidetracked. This time I clicked on the "enter contest" button determined to follow through. I got a late start (a week before the end of the contest) but that's okay. I need a deadline to motivate me.

I decided to make a white pique dress for my daughter since she wears more dresses than I do. It's difficult to find patterns in size 4 but we agreed on Simplicity 1650. We looked beyond the peplum to the basic lines of the pattern. I made a muslin to check the fit and it's a good thing I did. One adjustment that definitely needs to be made before cutting is the width across the front neckline area. I had to take out about 3/4 inch from the front width by moving the pattern over at the fold about 3/8 inch at the top only. Otherwise, I would have been adding darts to the front neckline!

The front princess seams needed to be taken up a bit but I decided to adjust that after cutting out the bodice so that I could pin the adjustments on her body. I compared the skirt to a favorite skirt pattern and it was very close so adjustments were easy for the skirt.

We liked the cap sleeve but not the gathers at the top especially for the weight of the pique. I spent more time on the sleeves than any other part of the process. I don't know a lot about sleeve drafting so I laid the cap sleeve pattern (with the extra fullness folded out) on top of tracing paper on top of the basic short sleeve and drafted a new sleeve with the parts that I liked from each.

 

I added self-fabric piping to the neckline and to the bottom of the sleeves. I love piping! I used a Bernina #3 buttonhole foot which has grooves in the bottom and I was able to get a lot closer to the cord than with a zipper foot. I also used the #3 foot for the invisible zipper and it worked just as well, if not better, than my invisible zipper foot. 

This is the sleeve piping before understitching with the lining opened out from the sleeve. The piping is tapered at the underarm seam to reduce bulk.

 

I made thread loops at the side seams with a method I learned from a Children's Corner pattern many years ago when I smocked for my daughters. I think I might be a nerdy seamstress because I counted the number of loops so that the thread chains on each side would match! 

 

 

Here she is all accessorized for an evening out.

 

Evening out without the belt.

This is the casual daytime version with brown leather belt and strappy wedges, brown wood beads, and a denim jacket.

This is the blank canvas. My daughter loves the dress. I think she will be able to wear this very classic style for many years, dressed up or down, or somewhere in between. 

I lined the dress with a poly/cotton batiste and inserted an invisible zipper in the back. Total cost of the dress is $16 for pique, lining, and zipper with coupons and my "over 55" senior discount at Hancock Fabrics!

Link here to my review of this dress on Patternreview.

A Cape for the Cold

Lucky for me Daughter wore Stashbuster #5 to church this morning and I was able to get a picture before she changed clothes. We have noticed lots of capes and ruanas in the stores in recent months and liked the idea of throwing on a quick wrap on a cold day. I picked up Simplicity 1521 (a Sew Simple 97 cent pattern) on a WalMart shopping trip and made a quick, lined cape with a button closure at the neckline.

The fabric is a very inexpensive gray wool blend from Hancock Fabrics lined with a black polyester lining. We decided not to make the buttonholes in the underarm area for a belt. At least, not right now. She likes to just throw it on without having to bother with a belt. Sometimes, simple is best.

2014 Stashbuster Totals
Yarn - 295 yards
Fabric - 7 yards

Goodwill Project #2 Simplicity 2125

Remember that 38 yards of fabric that I bought at Goodwill a few weeks ago? Well, I finally got around to photographing my second project from that find. I only had about 1 yard of this black/cream poly/cotton print fabric. I had Simplicity 2125 in my pattern stash because I liked the knit cardigan. I've never made the knit cardigan but the simple skirt is a pretty great pattern. I was able to easily modify it get a nice fit for my daughter.

Patternreview link

I sewed the front lining to the front at the waistline seam and back lining to back at waistline seam. Then I sewed the side seams in one continuous seam. This method makes it easy to make small adjustments in the waist and hips without picking out the waistline seam.

This is the inside view of the little pleat in the back.

 

Inside view of the invisible zipper. I love invisible zippers!

Okay, she's all done now. No more pictures.

This little skirt cost about 15 cents for the print fabric and less than $5 for the zipper and lining which was on sale at Hancock Fabrics. So far I've made 3 pillowcase dresses for charity and this skirt with over 30 yards left to sew out of my $5.75 purchase. I do love a bargain!

Simplicity 2125 Wool Lined Skirt

I picked up this Simplicity pattern a few weeks ago because I really like the cardigan which is designed for knit fabrics.

I decided to make a skirt last week when it was cold and snowy but I didn't want to go to the store. I had a nice striped wool fabric which I've had for years, lining, zipper, etc. but couldn't decide which pattern to use. Since the fabric has stripes, I decided to keep it simple. I took a closer look at the the skirt which was included in 2125 and it had nice basic lines - 2 darts in front and back, back seam, back pleat. I wanted to try the construction technique described in Threads a few months ago in which the front lining is attached to the front FF at the waist, back lining is attached to the back FF at waist and then the side seams are sewn in one continuous seam from lining hem to FF hem. I sewed the darts separately in FF and lining but you can also sew those in one continuous seam after attaching lining to FF at waist. This type of construction allows for easy fitting and future alterations. I moved the zipper from the side seam to the CB seam.

The pattern did not include lining instructions but rather a twill tape band at the waist. I eliminated that and added a bias section of hair canvas to the waist for a little body and firmness at the waistline. I included this in the seam, knowing that there would be a foldover of the hair canvas which would add a little bulk but it turned out to be just exactly what I needed for a stable waistline.

This picture shows the front lining attached to the skirt front, the seam pressed

toward the lining and understitched.

Pinned and ready to stitch 1 inch side seams in one long continuous seam.

I love making these cute little thread chains to hold the skirt lining in place at the hem.

The lining hand stitched in place to the back pleat.

Front view

Back view

After a few fitting adjustments to the side seams, I trimmed them to 5/8. I hope to be able to take this skirt up in the future but I don't plan to let it out!