Coverstitch Update

I decided to write an update on my decision to buy the Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX since I have received several inquiries lately related to my past posts about my search for a coverstitch machine.

I sew a lot of knits and, honestly, should have purchased a coverstitch years ago. Most of the knits I sew can be done almost entirely with the serger and the coverstitch. The Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX works great for my needs. I must admit it did take a little practice. It does not sew quite as smoothly as a regular sewing machine. But maybe it is not supposed to. I wasn't able to test drive any coverstitch machines before I ordered the Janome from a local dealer who carries Janome machines, but no coverstitch machines, in stock. I based my decision on the information and support from the Janome Coverpro forum at Patternreview.com. I can't imagine any question that couldn't be answered on the Coverpro discussion group. They even suggest the best suppliers for needles and accessories. There are little tricks to be learned, such as how to end the stitching in the middle of the fabric, such as a sleeve hem,  rather than sewing off the end of the fabric. There are great Janome tutorials for this on YouTube and I still refer to them if I haven't used the coverstitch for some time. Believe me, if you don't end the stitching correctly, your entire row of stitching ravels out!

As with any new machine, it takes practice and experimentation with the different fabrics. For example, I soon learned that, when hemming a lightweight knit, I needed to add a little support to the fabric so that the hem doesn't tunnel. I use Design Plus ultra-soft double sided fusible to fuse the hems in place and to prevent tunneling. I haven't tried other brands but I'm sure there are other options available as well.

This is an example of a sleeve hem on a very lightweight knit which I fused first with 3/8" double sided fusible. Not only does it prevent tunneling, it also helps me to press up a very even 3/8" hem. Since coverstitch hemming is done from the right side, it is important to work with an even hem.

For this medium weight jersey knit top, I was able to use the coverstitch machine to finish the neckline band, the sleeve hems and the bottom hem. I made a self-fabric binding and sewed it on with the regular machine first because, sometimes, I  pull the binding a little too tight as I sew it on. I try to get it right with a long machine stitch before I serge or coverstitch so I can easily remove the stitching and sew it again until I get the look that I like. I have experimented with a row of stitching on each side of the seam as I coverstitch as seen in RTW, but decided that I have more control with this method.

This is the sleeve hem of the same top. I fused the hem with the double-sided fusible and sewed the hem before sewing the side seam. Since this is a medium weight knit, I could have sewn this hem without the fusible, however, I have found that it is much easier to coverstitch narrow hems with the fusible.

This is the bottom hem of the top. I sewed the front and back hems on the coverstitch before sewing the side seams and adding the ties. I didn't use the fusible on the bottom hem since this is a medium weight knit. It worked fine without it and did not tunnel.

Now for the fun stuff! I tried to find ribbing for this Kwik Sew 3090 knit baby gown at the local Hancock Fabrics. They don't carry it at all. I went next door to Rugged Wearhouse, an outlet type store, to search for a ribbed garment I could cut up and use for ribbing. I found Gap tank tops in the junior department for $1 each! That's a lot of ribbing for $1. I was able to remove the ribbing from the neck and both armholes and use it for this gown and bib. It was already the right size and pre-folded for me. I guess it doesn't take much to excite me because this find made my day! I still have the rest of the tank top to cut up and use for ribbing on other projects.

This little gown is made from two boys t-shirts I found on the clearance rack at WalMart, a stripe and a coordinating solid. I used the solid for the neck trim, sleeve band, and for the hat. The hat is Kwik Sew 2433.

For this type of binding, I sewed it on right sides together, stretching slightly. Then I pressed to the inside and pinned without turning under the edge. I sewed with the coverstitch and then trimmed close to the stitching. I notice this method used often in RTW knits when I do "snoop" shopping.

I like the elastic at the bottom which pulls in the gown a little to help keep baby's feet covered. I quartered the elastic and the gown bottom, pinned, and stitched with the regular machine before turning to the inside and final stitching with the coverstitch. I used two different colors of thread because I was too lazy to change the thread but I don't think baby will mind.

I made all these projects in just a few days using primarily the serger and coverstitch machine. I have sewn knits for as long as I can remember, but never with the professional results I enjoy with the coverstitch machine. It would have been great to try out several machines before purchasing but they just aren't available to me locally. I especially would have liked to try out a serger/coverstitch combination machine. However, it would have to be extremely fast to convert back and forth to make me happy.

Good luck with your search for the right coverstitch machine. I would still be sewing knits if I didn't have one but, as I mentioned earlier, I wish I had purchased one long before I did!

Community Service Blanket Project

Wow! It's getting to be that busy time of the year. My sewing machine misses me. I did get in a little sewing earlier this month for a very worthwhile cause. My American Sewing Guild group met to make blankets for Hotel, Inc, a local organization whose goal is to break the cycle of poverty. We made twin and full size blankets from fleece fabric. They were quick to hem either with the regular machine or a coverstitch machine.

Each year, the American Sewing Guild chooses a community service project for all the local chapters to participate in. This year, each guild was encouraged to donate the blankets locally.

With temperatures dropping, I hope our blankets help to keep someone warm this winter!

New Look 6901

I've had this New Look 6901 pattern for a while now and decided to try it out with a yard of rayon/lycra knit that I purchased at Joann Fabrics. I thought the pattern might be a little too fitted for my taste so I made the mistake of cutting a size larger. I almost threw it in the garbage after the first try-on. It was too low cut and too large in the neckline. I decided I would go ahead and sew it up and give it away. After fiddling with it a bit and cutting down to the size I should have used in the first place, it actually turned out okay. It's a very quick top to sew up. I made most of it with the serger and coverstitch machines.

It goes great with my $11 knit skirt that I bought off the WalMart clearance rack. I will definitely use this pattern again if I can remember what I did to make it fit!

Copycat T-shirt

My daughter shops at a popular teen store at the mall where the clothing is trendy and not too expensive. I have to admit that I look around the store occasionally just to get ideas for sewing projects. I've noticed that all of their t-shirts are basically the same pattern with different neckline, sleeve, and hem treatments. I decided to trace the simple pattern for one of her favorite knits tops and use it as a basis for her summer top wardrobe.  I added a self fabric knit binding to the neckline and topstitched with my coverstitch machine. The sleeves have a narrow hem also stitched with the coverstitch and the bottom is finished with a band cut crosswise from the same fabric. I used Design Plus Ultra-Soft Double Sided Fusible from The Sewing Place to fuse the sleeve hem before stitching. With very lightweight knits such as this one, hems tend to tunnel even when stitched with the double-needle coverstitch. The fusible makes the hem very even and professional looking.

I decided that I really like the color of this knit and hated to throw away the small amount of leftover scraps. I cut a narrow scarf across the width of the fabric about 8 inches by 66 inches (the width of the fabric). I let the edges roll rather than finishing them.

I also had enough little scrappy pieces left to make a headband and a fabric flower. For the headband, I cut a strip 5 1/2 inches wide and 20 1/2 inches long. I folded the strip lengthwise, serged a 1/4 inch seam, turned the tube and stitched a seam in the back. I stitched on a fabric flower and it's done. Quick and easy. I had enough left to make another flower which I sewed to a felt circle and attached a clasp pin to the back.

I finally decided that there simply was not enough fabric left to make anything else and moved on to my next project. What are your ideas for using leftover fabrics from your sewing/craft projects?

Sewing Undies

Now this was a fun project! I have always wanted to try sewing underwear. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on patterns, fabric, and elastic only to end up with homemade, ill-fitting undies. I ran across this free pattern on indigorchid's wonderful blog. The idea is to recycle old t-shirts to make underwear.

I had rescued a few old t-shirts from my daughter's trash can a couple of weeks ago because I never really throw anything away which is remotely related to fabric, sewing, etc. She agreed to be my guinea pig for this experiment.

I already had underwear elastic in my stash which came from a local, well-known underwear company. Someone gave it to me because, as I said before, I stash all things related to sewing. The first pair I made with foldover elastic at the waist sewn on with my coverstitch machine. Since I was experimenting with size on this one, I got the legs just a bit tight so I finished them with a self-fabric binding sewn on with the coverstitich.

I ran across this lightweight piece of knit at the local fabric store for almost nothing and tried a different type of elastic. This is picot edge elastic which I stitched onto the edge of the legs and waist with the coverstitch machine.

Birgitte at indigorchid recommends Sew Sassy Fabrics in Huntsville, Alabama as a source for elastic. Their prices are great and I received an order very quickly. Now I'm on the lookout for more t-shirts in need of a recycle!

Once you determine the correct size and the length to cut the elastic, these are extremely quick and easy to sew up and cost less than $1.00 each!

Kwik Sew 3740 (with neckline adjustment)

I decided to make Kwik Sew 3740 again with an adjustment to the neckline. The first time I tried this pattern, I cut the neckline by the pattern and I like that top very much. This time, I wanted somewhat of a loose turtleneck/cowl which is high enough at the neckline to wear with sweater vests, cardigans, etc. and also a little bit warmer now that the temperature is in the 20's and 30's occasionally.

I placed my tracing paper under my original pattern and redrew the neckline. This was somewhat of a guess as to what I thought looked right. After I completed the top, I found a discussion on Patternreview.com about drafting cowls which indicated that if you draw a line straight across the shoulders, you should drop the front neckline about 4 inches. Lucky for me, that is exactly how much I dropped mine!

For the cowl neck, I cut a rectangle about 15 x 24 wide. The circumference of the cowl after seaming should match the distance around the neckline. (Actually, mine was ever so slightly smaller to help hold in the stretchy neckline) My neckline circumference is about 22 1/2. I allowed a little extra for shaping at the back seam. I first stitched a straight seam and tried on the cowl. I decided that it would be a good idea to let out the part which would be the fold on the cowl to make it a little looser and give it a little more fabric to "cowl". I tapered back to the original seamline keeping it at 22 1/2 .

Once I had all the adjustments made, I sewed the top up very quickly with my serger and Janome coverstitch machines. If the lightweight jersey didn't roll, I could have it stitched up in about an hour. Does anyone have any tips for sewing with knits that roll?

 
I plan to make several more of these in other colors. I have always enjoyed sewing with knits but REALLY enjoy it now that I can get professional (and stretchy) hems with the coverstitch!

Kwik Sew 3915

I'm starting to really like Kwik Sew patterns, especially since I got my new coverstitch machine. I picked up 3915 a couple of weeks ago when I had a coupon from the local fabric shop. Kwik Sew patterns are a little pricey and they hardly ever go on sale locally. This is a new pattern and I couldn't find any reviews on PatternReview.  I took a chance and it turned out pretty nice. I will definitely use this pattern again.

Since I wasn't sure if I would like it, I did a test sew with a piece of cranberry red polyester interlock knit that I purchased at JoAnn Fabrics on sale for almost nothing. Well, I didn't waste that piece of fabric because I love the pattern and plan to shop for more knits tomorrow.

This was an extremely quick top to make. I sewed everything on the serger and coverstitch machine except for the little loops for the buttons and the row of gathering for the front collar.

What did you make today?

Janome Coverpro 1000 CPX

I decided on the Janome Coverpro coverstitch machine. There is a great support group on Patternreview. There is a four part guide with tips and great information provided by Coverpro owners. There are also several useful videos on youtube.com with helpful hints such as how to remove the fabric without unraveling the hem. I told my hubby that it would revolutionize my sewing. That might be just a little bit of an exaggeration but not much. He said it sounds like I should get one just as long as I charge it on the card that earns his free flights!

I had a busy weekend and haven't been able to actually sew with it yet. I did try it out though since it was threaded and ready to go right out of the box. This sample hem was stitched after removing one of the 3 needles with very few adjustments.

 
Now I will really enjoy sewing with knits. Any suggestions on mail order sources for nice knit fabrics?

Coverstitch Machine Dilemma

I have decided that I really want need a coverstitch machine. I love to sew knits and I like the professional look that you get with a coverstitch machine. I have researched and googled and narrowed the search down to the BabyLock BLCS-2 or the Janome CoverPro 1000CPX.

Babylock BLCS-2

Janome CoverPro 1000CPX

All reveiws are great for the Babylock but the space to the right of the needle is small. I'm wondering if I will be bunching up fabric for a wider hem or to actually stitch on the garment rather than a hem such as topstitching over a princess seam. Or would I even want to do that type of stitching often? Also, the Babylock does not have the freearm feature. The Babylock has Jet-Air threading which would be great but I guess I could live without it.

Reviews for the Janome are great as well. The Janome, however, seems to be a bigger, heavier machine and my space is already cramped. Also, some report that the Janome does not sew quite as well through heavy fabrics such a heavyweight fleece and that it is more difficult to control the speed.


My local machine dealer does not carry either of these machines in stock but could order for me. The Janome is about half the price of the Babylock but this is probably the only coverstitch machine that I will ever buy so I want to get the one that works best for me.

Any help in this decision would be greatly appreciated!!